I've invested so many hours scrolling through forums looking for a good solas prop review before I actually finally decided in order to bite the bullet and buy one myself personally. If you're anything with this problem, your boat's current prop is definitely either chewed up from the run-in with a sandbar or even you're just tired of your engine screaming at high RPMs without in fact going anywhere fast. I needed something which wouldn't break the particular bank but also wouldn't feel like an inexpensive piece of plastic the second it strike water.
After a few months of screening the Solas Amita 3 and the Rubex series on my mid-sized angling boat, I figured it was period to put our thoughts down. Choosing a propeller is one of those issues that seems simple until you begin looking at pitch, diameter, and rake angles, and then suddenly you're doing calculus simply to go regarding a Sunday sail. Hopefully, this helps you figure away if these props are actually worth your hard-earned cash.
Why Also Look at Solas?
Let's end up being honest: OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) stage sets from brands like Mercury or Yamaha are often great, but they are incredibly expensive. When i came across the particular price tag intended for a replacement metal steel prop through my local seller, I nearly dropped over. Solas has generated a reputation since the "go-to" aftermarket brand because they provide similar performance regarding a cheaper cost.
But "cheaper" usually makes people anxious. I was worried that will a Solas prop would be badly balanced or made of soft metal that would bend the 1st time it saw a wake. What I found, even though, is that Solas actually manufactures props for a lot of those big-name brands anyway. They have one of the most sophisticated casting facilities within the world, so you aren't specifically buying a knock-off; you're buying from your source, just without the fancy branded container.
The Rubex Hub System is usually a Lifesaver
Major things I actually noticed in this solas prop review process was their own Rubex interchangeable center system. If you've ever had to alter a prop, you know that the hub—the middle bit that will slides onto the shaft—can be the total pain.
The Rubex system uses a heavy rubber insert that's designed to absorb shock. This is usually huge for two reasons. First, if you hit something, the centre is designed to "give" a small bit, which may save your lower unit's gears from shattering. Second, it significantly reduces that irritating "prop chatter" or even clunking sound when you shift directly into gear. I noticed a much smoother changeover from neutral in order to forward than I ever had along with my stock aluminum prop. Plus, when I ever change engines or sell the boat, I actually can usually just swap the hub kit rather than purchasing a whole new propeller.
Efficiency on the Drinking water: The Hole Chance
I began my testing with the Amita 3, that is their standard 3-blade aluminum prop. The boat was experiencing a "heavy" feel—it took forever to obtain on plane while i had a few of buddies plus a full livewell on board.
The distinction was pretty immediate. The blade geometry on the Solas seems a bit more aggressive compared to my old share prop. I sensed the "bite" nearly instantly. The gap shot improved by about two or three seconds, which doesn't sound like much on paper, but it feels like the lifetime when you're trying to obtain the bow straight down in a choppy bay.
The boat sensed more responsive. It didn't feel like the prop has been just "churning butter" within the water; this felt like it has been actually grabbing the particular surface and driving. For a budget-friendly aluminum prop, We were genuinely surprised at just how much more "torque" I experienced in the reduced end.
Mid-Range and Top Acceleration
This is definitely where things get interesting. Most individuals think a brand-new prop will amazingly add 10 with to their max speed. In reality, it's usually a trade-off. If you want a better pit shot, you might lose just a little from the top, and vice versa.
With the Solas, We stayed pretty significantly exactly where I used to be with my top-end speed, maybe attaining 1 mph on a lucky day with the wind at the back. However, the mid-range fuel economy is exactly where I saw the actual benefit. I had been capable to maintain the comfortable cruising speed at a slightly lower RPM as opposed to the way before. That means the engine isn't working as hard, it's quieter, plus I'm burning much less gas. For the long day of coastal cruising, that adds up.
Aluminum vs. Stainless-steel: My Take
During this solas prop review , I also got our hands on the Solas Saturn stainless-steel prop to observe if the extra cash was worth it.
If you're running in serious, clean water and you want the total best performance, the particular stainless is the particular way to move. It's thinner, stiffer, and doesn't flex pressurized like aluminium does. I observed the boat sensed "crisper" in converts. When you mix the wheel, the particular stainless prop remains hooked up while the aluminum 1 might cavitate (lose grip) a little bit.
However—and it is a huge "however"—if you're a casual boater or else you frequently navigate low, rocky areas, stay with the Solas lightweight aluminum (Amita) series. If you hit a stone with stainless, your prop stays fine but your costly engine internals consider the hit. In case you hit a rock with the aluminum Solas, the particular prop sacrificialy breaks or cracks, saving your electric motor. Given how inexpensive the Amita collection is, it's a lot easier to stomach replacing a $120 prop than the usual $3, 000 reduced unit.
The "Prop Rattle" Mystery
I have to mention one thing because I've seen it in other discussions: prop shake. Some boaters make a complaint that aftermarket stage sets cause a gerüttel at low idle. Used to do experience a tiny bit associated with this with the particular stainless model, but it was hardly noticeable. If you experience this, it's usually because the prop is heavier than the share one. The Rubex hub kit usually solves this, but make sure you've got the drive washer installed correctly. It's a "user error" thing even more often than the usual "product defect" thing.
Durability and Finish
After a full season of use, the paint around the Amita 3 is holding up better than I expected. Usually, the black covering on cheap props starts flaking away after the first 30 days, getting out of the relationship with an ugly, oxidized mess. The Solas surface finish is pretty hard. I've run through some sandy bits and several seagrass, plus while there are some tiny scratches, there's no major peeling.
The stainless Saturn prop still appears brand new. It offers a high-polish finish off that actually appears pretty sharp on the back of the boat. In case you care about the "curb appeal" of your rig, the Solas stainless options look just as good as the $700 boutique props.
Is It Well worth It?
Covering up this solas prop review , I must ask: who is this for?
If you are an expert bass fisherman or someone looking to squeeze every last 0. 5 MPH out of a top-end racing hull, you're probably going to spend $800 on a custom-pitched prop. But for the particular other 95% associated with us—the weekend warriors, the family tubers, and the informal anglers—Solas is the no-brainer.
You're getting a prop that is balanced properly, easy to install, and significantly cheaper than the dealer's "official" components. I've been actually impressed with the balance of the blades; I don't feel any weird vibration through the steering wheel, which is a common problem with "no-name" props you discover on big retail websites.
Conclusions
The Solas selection has definitely earned its spot on our boat. Whether a person go for the Amita for its value and basic safety or the Rubex/Saturn for that extra bit of "bite, " you're getting a solid piece of hardware. It's one of the few updates you can perform for less than $200 (for aluminum) that you will actually experience as soon as you push the throttle forwards.
Just make sure you do your homework on the pitch. If you're currently striking your engine's recommended Max RPM, stay with the exact same pitch. If your engine is striving to reach all those RPMs, drop lower two inches within pitch when a person buy your Solas. Get that best, and I believe you'll be simply as happy along with the switch because I was.
Hanging around, plus I'll help you out there on the water!